The 1990 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano (magnum) is a last-minute addition to the lineup and also one of the most breathtaking wines of the night. Of course, the magnum format helps, but the 1990 is captivating from the moment I taste it. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, spice and mint are some of the many nuances that develop in the glass, but it is the wine’s mind-blowing balance that steals the day. -- Antonio Galloni

The 1990 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano reveals gorgeous inner perfume in a soft, sensual style. Warm, open and generous, the wine shows superb balance, with a purity of fruit that powers through to the long, round finish. I have a slight preference for the 1989 here, but would be thrilled to own more of the 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Antonio Galloni