(NM91-93 points) A superb Chasse-Spleen. A similar hue to the Lafon-Rochet but with a wider brick red rim. The palate is more floral and feminine with good complexity: cedar, forest floor, earth - all quite lifted and perfumed from the ripe Merlot. The palate is smooth, with well-knit tannins, good acidity, though with a touch of excess alcohol that lends the wine some bitterness. But after time in the glass, it harmonizes and becomes more cohesive. Cedar and tobacco on the finish. Very focused. This is a fine 1990. Drink now or over 4-5 years.

A bottle of 1990 Chasse-Spleen is ordered off the list and served blind to fellow diners who rattled through every Bordeaux appellations except for Moulis! Tut-tut. Because this is a fantastic Chasse-Spleen that demonstrates what Moulis can do in a great vintage. The nose is complex with scents of dark berry fruit, freshly tilled earth, morels and tobacco. The warmth of the vintage is held back by the austerity of the Cabernet Sauvignon and reaching an irresistible equilibrium. The palate is beautifully balanced with svelte tannin. Not a plump Chasse-Spleen by any means, but rounded and caressing in the mouth. Everything just feels in its right place. It nonchalantly fans out towards the finish with subtle sous-bois notes and a hint of pencil lead on the aftertaste. I am reminded of the 1947 Chasse-Spleen I enjoyed earlier this year, from a similarly hot summer, so perhaps this 1990 is a modern-day equivalent? Just wonderful. Tasted at The Arches restaurant in London. - By Neal Martin on February 2018