From a bottle caked in mud and dust acquired over two decades in the cellar, 1990 Barolo Monprivato is a fascinating and epic wine. I tasted bottle number 00982. It pours from the glass with a garnet ruby color that shows a translucent, brilliant appearance. The bouquet is fine and elegant with a long parade of varietal aromas spanning from forest berry and cola to white truffle and pressed violets. It’s a wine of a million fine points and hidden details that reveal themselves seductively and slowly. As the bouquet takes on more air, a new set of aromas with spice and dark espresso begin to emerge. The mouthfeel is equally elegant and fine with silky tannins and points of bright acidity that add a great sense of dimension and energy. It’s a gorgeous expression of Nebbiolo and one of the most profound and beautiful Barolos I tasted in this retrospective. Medicinal and menthol notes drive a beautifully long and complex finish. Give the wine plenty of decanting time; 12 hours or more. Drink: 2014-2024. - Monica Larner