The 1990 Barolo La Serra offers graceful tertiary highlights of spice, leather and coffee grinds contrasted against dark fruit nuances of pressed blackberry and plum. The years from 1988 to 1995 denote one of the most exciting phases in the history of this estate, when Roberto was furiously experimenting with a wide choice of oak styles and vessels to set the groundwork for what would eventually become his trademark (some call it “modernist”) style. This wine sees a combination of botte grande and barrique. What I most appreciate in the bouquet are the budding mineral notes of crushed granite and polished river stone that so perfectly frame the opulent core of fruit. Those drying mineral notes add a stunning veil of femininity and refinement. Roberto has seriously reduced vineyard yields over the past decades and estimates that the amount of fruit harvested in 1990 was roughly three times what he would typically pick today. Interestingly, the wine in no way feels over-cropped or watered-down. In fact, it boasts a firm tannic backbone, good intensity and a wonderful blast of black licorice on the lengthy close. Drink: 2014-2028. - Monica Larner