Now 22 years of age, Anne-Claude Leflaive's 1992 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet is still going strong and, given the performance here, you could envisage it continuing along its plateau for another ten years. It has a surprisingly deep color, but don't let that put you off. It has a magnificently detailed oyster-shell bouquet that expresses minerality like few others, a strong marine influence developing all the time in the glass. The palate is beautifully defined with nigh on perfect acidity. It is an intense Bienvenue with subtle white peach and citrus notes toward the ethereal finish. This is utter class. - Neal Martin

Superb honeysuckle fruit that is still quite vibrant and youthful with soft, very pure flavors of lovely length. This is drinking perfectly now and is wine that displays more finesse than power. I would be drinking this now as the acidity is suffciently soft that it won't hold indefinitely.