The 1994 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was the first vintage produced by Jean-Charles de la Morinière, and this was a challenging year, with thunderstorms at harvest time that "turned" the grapes. The resulting wine is really a very fine achievement for the vintage, unwinding in the glass with a lovely bouquet of honeycomb, yellow orchard fruit, buttered citrus and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and elegantly textural, with racy acids and fine balance. This doesn't have the concentration or searing structure of the best vintages, but it's an immensely charming wine that is drinking well today, and it numbers among the high points of the year. - William Kelley