Owner/wine-maker Steve Kistler admirably supported by his omnipresent sidekick Mark Bixler continues to make wines of extraordinary richness and complexity. Their Chardonnay production has risen to nearly 18000 cases all of it bottled without fining or filtration. I joked with Kistler and Bixler after tasting through the remarkable set of nine Sonoma Chardonnays that while it would take me five days of tasting in Burgundy to find this many great Chardonnays it took me less than two hours at Kistler Vineyards an observation that demonstrates just what heights California vintners are now achieving. Kistler is still in the process of releasing their 1993s. Most of the 1994s will be released in 1996 with a handful of them released in 1997. This high quality winery is doing everything right which is reflected in the consistency ageworthiness and brilliance of these wines. Another profound wine is the 1994 Chardonnay Vine Hill Road Vineyard. It is an extremely impressive subtle smoky Chardonnay with a petrol/mineral/slate richness that I have noticed in the great Montrachets from Ramonet as well as in Rieslings and Gewurztraminers from Alsace. Extremely rich with suggestions of honeyed apples oranges and beautifully integrated toasty oak this is an exquisite Chardonnay that should drink well for 5-6 years. Kistler is HOT!

Displays remarkable depth and integration slowly unfolding to show flavors of pear vanilla fig anise smoke butter and spice that loll smooth rich and creamy on the palate. An altogether complex and concentrated young wine that packs in flavor while maintaining harmony and finesse. 2748 cases made. –JL