The 1995 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Combettes from Robert Ampeau has matured with style. It has a nose of wet wool and toffee apple, melted wax and a touch of the old mothballs. It is not the freshest you will find but, my word, such character. The palate is medium-bodied with a surprisingly richly textured, honeyed entry, although it remains focused and very pure, much more so than the nose. As it approaches the finish it retains utmost elegance, completing what is a lovely, character-driven Puligny at its peak now. - Neal Martin