Dense and unusually Rhône-like for an Aussie Shiraz, with plenty of earth, leather and gamelike overtones to the supple core of black cherry and dark plum flavors. Distinctive, somewhat unique, a wine of great style and character. Best after 2000. 800 cases made. –HS

Readers should not confuse this winery with Clarendon Hills. The Clarendon winery has produced an exuberant, explosively ripe, powerful Shiraz with an opaque purple color, and a sweet, American oak-dominated nose with blackberry jam-like notes in the background. Unctuously-textured, full-bodied and chewy, this is a muscular, macho-styled wine that delivers plenty of fruit, alcohol, and glycerin. Drink it over the next 5-7 years. - Robert Parker