Ex-cellar bottle tasted blind at the Lynch Bages vertical. Much more closed on the nose with notes of blackberry, wild hedgerow, a touch of liquorice and Asian spice. The palate is full-bodied, firm tannins, good concentration, nice tension, although much more linear than I was expecting. Does not have the flair I was expecting although I admire its peppery, irony finish. Good depth of flavour, still a little unresolved.

The 1995 Lynch-Bages has a well-defined bouquet with intense blackberry, undergrowth and tobacco scents. Bold and lifted, this is a nose that wants to make an impression. The palate has more concentration and tannic backbone than others in this era. Dark berry fruit mixes with cola and black pepper, and tobacco comes through toward the finish with an austere, grippy finish. This would benefit from decanting for a couple of hours and is a bit of a bruiser, though not without charm. Tasted blind at the Lynch Bages vertical at the château. -- Neal Martin