Lots of taut sinew here supporting the beam of black cherry plum tar and mineral flavors with sweet earth tobacco and cocoa powder on the finish. This wine has gotten progressively bigger over time and still seems in its ascendancy. Terrific focus and purity.--1995 Châteauneuf-du-Pape retrospective. Drink now through 2020. 8330 cases made. -JM

From a hot year - with rain at harvest - that benefited later-picking estates, the 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape is still impressively young and vibrant, with a solid kick of tannin. Possessing a masculine edge to its licorice, smoked meats, peppery herbs and both red and black fruits, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and a little edgy on the palate, with plenty of similarities to the 2005. It certainly has another decade of longevity, but the tannin will be something to watch. I've had more ready to go bottles from my cellar and certainly see no reason to hold off here. - Jeb Dunnuck