The more I taste the top wines from the 1995 vintage in Champagne, the more I am convinced that this too is a vintage of legendary quality. The ’95 Comtes is a touch more classic in profile than the otherworldly 1996, but it too is a brilliant bottle, as it soars from the glass in blend of delicious apples, pears, toasted almonds, orange zest, crème patissière, plenty of smokiness and exotic spice elements in the upper register that are redolent of both fresh nutmeg and saffron. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and delivers stunning depth at the core, with superb focus and balance, refined mousse, bright, zesty acids and stunning length and grip on the soil-driven and brilliantly complex finish. A great, great wine.

The hugely impressive 1995 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs displays ripe apple and pear scents. Broad rich deep and medium to full-bodied this dense (yet admirable balanced) powerful wine is packed with concentrated layers of white fruits flowers and toast. Notes of tangy green apples appear in its awesomely long finish to reinvigorate the palate.

Toast and graphite flavors highlight this elegant graceful blanc de blancs. It has a subtle power driving the candied berry and dried citrus notes with a touch of pastry and the ever-present mineral. Fine harmony and finish. Drink now through 2015. -BS