An exceptional vintage, the tannins of this 1996 feel a little edgy and austere, although there is precision on display, with waves of graphite and liqourice along with classic cassis fruits and sweetened bilberry puree, I would give this a few more years and go for the 1990 right now (or the 1996 Armailhac), Eric Tourbier technical director. Harvest September 30 to October 9.

The 1996 Clerc Milon was surprisingly closed on the nose, tightly wound at first but gently unfurling with scents of melted tar, desiccated orange peel and leather that are interwoven into the black fruit. I noticed a more pronounced tobacco scent developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more flesh than the 1996 d'Armailhac, spicy with cracked black pepper, Hoi Sin, bay leaf and Asian spice notes liberally sprinkled over the finish. Decant this for an hour before pouring folks. - Neal Martin