The graphite, toast, spice, candied berry and coconut aromas are seductive, and the class and finesse hold your attention. Picks up mineral and citrus flavors. Supersilky in texture, with harmony and a youthful expression as this lingers on the seemingly endless aftertaste. Drink now through 2030. 10 cases imported. –BS

The 1996 Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs spent nine years aging on its lees prior to disgorgement and had been in my friend’s cellar since 2009. This is a beautifully complex and à point example of the vintage, wafting from the glass in a superb blend of pear, apple, deep nutty tones, a beautiful base of soil, gentle notes of crème patissière, gentle leesiness and a topnote of citrus peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and absolutely rock solid at the core, with lovely complexity, refined mousse and superb length and grip on the focused and very classy finish. Lovely juice that has now entered its apogee of peak drinkability, but will last for decades and still has plenty of chapters left. 2013-2035. 94+

With all the signature acidity of the 1996 vintage, this shows plenty of aging potential. The wine is thirst-quenchingly fresh, with the flavor of just-squeezed lime juice, but also has a depth of complex tannins and texture. Drink now but age for five years or more.