Now at 20 years of age, the 1996 Echezeaux Grand Cru from Emmanuel Rouget is vindicating the plaudits that praised this wine on release. It is just a great Pinot Noir. Deep in hue, it is surprisingly backward and youthful on the nose, tightly wound with black fruit, cranberry and violets. Echézeaux-cum-Margaux perhaps! The palate is medium-bodied and very well balanced, quite sturdy in backbone as is common with many 1996s, stocky like Emmanuel with an almost sorbet-fresh, vivacious finish that beckons you back for another sip. It would not surprise me if at 30 years of age it warrants an even higher score. This is superb. Tasted June 2016. - Neal Martin