This bottle of the 1996 Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut was drinking superbly and represents the apotheosis of Blanc de Blancs, unfurling over the course of three hours with a stunningly complex bouquet of citrus oil, confit lemon, dried white flowers and oyster shell, with hints of praline and pastry cream becoming more pronounced as the wine opens up in the glass. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, defined by the incisive spine so typical of the vintage that, here, is cloaked in layers of crisp fleshy and chalky extract. The finish is long, penetrating and saline. Unfortunately, since the 1996 Salon has been traded so zealously over the last decade, finding a bottle that hasn't travelled too far can be a challenge. But from a perfectly stored bottle, this is just the beginning. - William Kelley

Maturing into a medium golden color, the 1996 Salon reveals open-knit, alluring scents of butterscotch, dried apricots, pineapple upside-down cake, and preserved lemons, plus wafts of sea spray and praline. The light to medium-bodied palate delivers Salon’s classic razor-fine backbone of acidity with rich, evolved caramelized tropical fruit layers while the bubbles remain exquisitely tiny and persistent. It gives a very long, mineral-tinged finish. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown

While many of the best ‘96s do remain impressively youthful, this seems to be stuck in a time capsule that brooks no change, at least not willingly! The ultra-elegant nose is clearly still developing and while there are background traces of apple, yeast and floral undertones in evidence, it is the citrus elements that presently dominate. The incredible refinement doesn’t stop with the nose however as the detailed and vibrant flavors are firm yet delicate with fine shadings of citrus, yeast and something vaguely akin to minerality that continues onto the pure, harmonious and driving finish that is bone dry but not austere. It’s hard to predict exactly when this might be at its best, though my sense is 5 to 7 years hence. Tasted twice recently with consistent results. 2021+

A lemony hue with green tints. A very fine nose that builds in the glass: green apple, touch of mown grass and citrus fruit. Very primordial but great delineation. The palate has lovely balance, less showy than the Salon 1995. Apple, touch of lime and citrus fruits. A little steely on the mid-palate. Superb definition and delineation with that typical Zen-like finish infused with a touch of fresh grapefruit. This will need at least ten years of bottle maturation, but it will be worth it.

The latest release from Salon, this just explodes in the mouth with mineral, steel and flint. The tiny mousse has flavors of yeast and just a touch of toast. It is rich, but so austere and structured. Like many Salon Champagnes, this will age for 20 years or more.

A deep, vinous style, with understated power and grace. The lemon verbena, toast and honey aromas and flavors are propelled by the well-integrated structure and fine bubbles. There's just a hint of greenness, marking its youthful impetuosity. Has great length. Best from 2010 through 2030. 840 cases imported. –BS