Rich toasty mature this important Champagne is all those things. It's certainly mature for a 1998 vintage which means it would be delicious to drink now. But the ripeness allied to the serious acidity and wood structure do suggest that it's likely to age more.

The 1998 Dom Ruinart Brut Vintage is simply gorgeous. This taut focused Champagne is currently quite shut down and appears to be holding back much of its potential. Still the wine possesses plenty of density in its ripe Chardonnay fruit smoke and minerals with a long subtle finish. All this wine needs is time in bottle. If past vintages are any indication the 1998 should age beautifully. Readers who enjoy fresh wines will find plenty to admire in this wine now but those who enjoy Champagnes with a little age on them will want to wait a few years before enjoying this fine effort. This is Lot: AEE2AD disgorged July 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018.