The 1998 Brut Cuvee Palmes d'Or is a sexy drink. While not a blockbuster the wine reveals an engaging harmonious personality. The open inviting bouquet leads to an expressive generous core of fruit with pretty notes of early tertiary character that add complexity. Brioche hazelnuts dried pears and dried apricots linger on a long beautifully articulated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. No disgorgement date available.

This Palmes d'Or style is used to create a wine rather than a Champagne. It works here the structure and the toast all giving a mouthfeel of Burgundy. The acidity of course is characteristic of Champagne but it is well integrated into the yeast the green stone fruits and the pink grapefruit freshness. R.V.

A mix of apricot dried cherry and lemon aromas and flavors are sharply etched and there's a grainy texture to this bubbly which has intensity even if it is a bit chunky. Drink now through 2018. Tasted twice with consistent notes. -BS