The contrast of depth and brightness or intensity and weightlessness creates a sense of harmonic resonance in this wine. All the aromatics are potent from the scent of rising bread dough to the red skin of an apple all the corresponding flavors rich yet refreshing. The firmness of the acidity seems to add briskness to the mousse leaving a clean chiseled impression of the chalk soils in which this grew. Once in a while there is a young beauty who will age into a more profound older beauty; La Grande Dame is part of that rare breed.

64% Pinot Noir; 36% Chardonnay. Seemingly a bit livelier than the typical Grande Dame but still a rich wine based on its Pinot Noir heritage it combines an admirably strong mousse with plenty of acidity and a dried toffee nutty overlay of burgeoning complexity. Lovely. $150.00

A superbly ripe Champagne that has all the open generosity of the 1998 vintage. Peach and apricot aromas are followed by flavors of hazelnuts, honey and spices. Of course, it is still very young, and, like all vintages of La Grande Dame, it will age for many years.

There's plenty of finesse in this sleek Champagne along with an airy texture and loads of grip. Graphite lemon toast and mineral aromas and flavors prevail and this takes on a chalky edge on the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2010 through 2028. -BS

The house’s 1998 La Grande Dame reveals notable clarity and precision. This focused, poised wine emerges from the glass with well-articulated flowers, pears, smoke, crisp apples and minerals in a medium-bodied style. The wine appears to have enough freshness and sheer depth to support another decade or so of aging. La Grand Dame represents a significant step up from the estate’s other wines. In 1998 La Grande Dame is 64% Pinot Noir (Ay, Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay and Bouzy) and 36% Chardonnay (Avize, Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger). This is Lot 510 2572, disgorged between December, 2006 and January, 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. - Antonio Galloni