The orange/yellow-colored 1998 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese Zwischen den Seen Number 3 explodes from the glass with spices, lychee nuts, roses, and candied white raisins. It is gorgeously focused, fresh, medium-bodied, and is packed with smoky minerals as well as loads of jammy yellow fruits. This exceptionally long wine reveals a firm tannic backbone, a rarity for a white wine but typical of its varietal. It has an immensely impressive combination of power, concentration, balance, and elegance. Anticipated maturity: Now-2020+. -Pierre Rovani

Impressive, but impenetrable today. Intense aromas, almost a singed or burnt character, introduce this racy, elegant TBA whose grapefruit, orange marmalade and almond candy flavors converge into a hard-candy aftertaste. Give it some time. Best from 2002 through 2007. –BS