I was lucky to track this down at the very last minute before it was needed for a tasting (from a wine shop in St Emilion) because bottles of this vintage are now like gold dust. It is in the perfect drinking window, and is just a wonderful example of a year that was particularly kind to the best Pomerol estates. Full-on black truffles and smoked earth, fragrant cigar box and turmeric spices, atumnal brambled fruits and melted tannins that are finely-honed yet still muscular, showcasing the tightrope that L'Eglise Clinet so often manages to walk. Winemaker Denis Durantou in full brilliant flow.

This is the most sublime example of the 1998 l’Eglise-Clinet of many that I have tasted. The 1998 is a Pomerol that, after 23-years, has reached its zenith. It has a simply gorgeous bouquet of ebullient red fruit, black truffle, cedar and pressed rose petals, with exquisite delineation and harmony. That, follows through on the palate that has a fine bead of acidity, perfect balance, brilliant poise and ethereal purity. Whereas previous bottles have been tight and required longer cellaring, this indicates that Denis Durantou’s brilliant Pomerol is reaching its drinking plateau. Tasted at the Amos Bursary charity dinner at 67 Pall Mall. -- Neal Martin

Soft and silky yet firm and gorgeous. Full-bodied with a gorgeous core of raspberry and spices on the palate, with chocolate and mahogany notes. Still very young and in reserve. I decanted before drinking, but it's still a little tight. Needs more bottle time.

Aromas of dark chocolate and blackberry, with hints of black olives. Full-bodied, with chewy, polished tannins and loads of ripe fruit, tapenade and flowers. A complex and complete wine. Still needs time. One of the best ever from here.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. – JS

The Château l'Eglise-Clinet 1998 has developed an absolutely stunning bouquet: precocious, glycerin-rich red cherries, cassis, violets and minerals all beautifully defined and so intense. The palate is full-bodied with ripe tannin, layers of sweet blackberry and wild strawberry fruit intermingling with white pepper, cumin, black truffle and tar. There is a crescendo towards the finish that just fans out across the mouth. After 17 years (which makes me feel old, as I remember tasting it from barrel), it is a Pomerol that will take on all comers in the appellation with the exception of the 1998 Petrus. It will give 40-50 years worth of drinking pleasure. Tasted March 2015. - Neal Martin