(Not yet released)The extraordinary 1998 Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Vendange Tardive has a mouth-watering nose of candied blood oranges lightly dusted with botrytis-caused spiciness. Creamed red yellow and white fruits are interspersed with earth minerals and gravel in this complex concentrated full-bodied behemoth. Its massive personality is well-buttressed by its superb acidity. Additionally this muscular yet graceful wine has an unbelievably long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant Berkeley CA; tel (510) 524-1524.

Like a gymnast this lithe white glides across the palate its underlying strength and tautness merely supporting the dried apricot guava honey and candied citrus. Finish just melts away. Delicious. Drink now through 2004. –BS