The spectacular 1998 flirts with perfection. A saturated opaque blue/purple color is not dissimilar from ink. Dazzling aromas of ripe pure blackberries violets blueberries wet stones and smoky toasty oak soar from the glass. Powerful with an unctuous texture and super-extracted rich concentrated flavors this blockbuster effort boasts extravagant quantities of fruit glycerin extract tannin and personality. The wine displays a firm structured edge but a viscous texture from super concentration gives it immediate accessibility. This 1998 should hit its plateau of maturity in 7-8 years and is a strong candidate for 20-30 years of aging. It is a winemaking tour de force. ERIC SOLOMON EUROPEAN CELLARS 236 West 27 St. Room 801 New York NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567