Even better, with more concentration and richness than the classic cuvee, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee les Origines is comprised of 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah. Raised 18 months in equal parts concrete tank and barrel, this medium to full-bodied, rich, balanced red gives up lots of smoked black cherries, leather, cocoa, licorice and dried spices. I like it now, but it has plenty of mid-palate depth, and the sweet tannin on the finish makes me think it will hold nicely going forward. - Jeb Dunnuck