One of the riper more exotic wines of the vintage this gushes with black currant fig and blackberry fruit all of which has melded together and is starting to show a corrupt edge while the sweet bacon spice mesquite and clove-studded blood orange notes fill out the background. The long very juicy finish is multilayered and supported by fresh acidity.--1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape retrospective. Drink now through 2027. 6250 cases made. -JM

A classic version of this cuvee that's drinking at full maturity, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee offers lots of bouquet garni, cured meats, orange blossom and garrigue to go with a killer core of sweet kirsch and blackberry-driven Grenache fruit. Balanced, full-bodied, seamless and sexy, it's doesn't get much more Pegau than this. Drink it anytime over the coming 5+ years. - Jeb Dunnuck