Very complex, this is a major-league red with a tight but deep nose of black fruits, spice, and tar. The deep yet closed fruit on the palate is accented by pronounced clove, tarragon and anise notes. Beautifully structured, with a velvety texture and fine fruit-to-acid balance. This impressive bottling finishes long, with dark fruit and cocoa notes. It virtually demands aging for three to five years.

This has always been one of the harder-edged wines of the vintage, but it is showing some signs of softening. The color remains dark, with aromas of grilled herb, tobacco and beef leading the way for currant, chestnut and garrigue notes that are carried by the prominent tannin structure. The chewy, mouthfilling finish is starting to let some sweet flesh come out from behind the iron and stone notes. Still needs time, but this is rock solid.--1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape retrospective. Best from 2009 through 2027. – JM

A rustic, burly wine, the 1998 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau displays nice garrigue, hot stone, licorice and seaweed notes on the big and rich nose. Medium to full bodied, this shows considerable structure and power with ripe fruit and a coarse, slightly rustic texture. Medium tannins show up on the finish. - Jeb Dunnuck

...the finest Vieux-Telegraphe made in twenty years (since the 1978). A spectacular effort...huge concentration but it was very difficult to assess until a few months ago. I may be committing infanticide as most tasters should give this wine another 3-4 years of cellaring...