Shows loads of plum tart, milk chocolate and jam on the nose. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and pretty fruit. This is giving what you want right now, with cherry and light mocha undertones. Long and caressing.—'99 Brunello blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. – JS

The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is a time capsule wine. You can still taste the so-called modern renderings of toasted oak and dark chocolate that were favored when this wine was produced. This bolder, beefed-up approach has served it well over the years. Tertiary aromas of smoked ham and cigar box frame the wine’s natural heft and richness. I’m not sure how much more evolution this wine will see, but it seems to be holding steady for the time being. A few hours of air should suffice before serving. Drink: 2014-2024. - Monica Larner