Dried apricot, herbs and orange peel aromas and flavors abound, while the crisp structure keeps this racy. It's concentrated, despite its ethereal profile, with a lingering finish. Furmint, Hárslevelü and Muscat. Drink now through 2032. – BS

Made with 50% Furmint, 45% Háslevelu and 5% Muscat, this vintage weathered two hailstorms during the summer. The surviving grapes benefited from greater concentration, leading to a more intense wine. Already developing toffee and coffee notes, this wine still shows plenty of citrus, honey, dried apricot and fig, with a hint of nuttiness on the nose. Syrupy and round, the citrusy acids maintain a beautiful harmony.

Betsek stands out for its intense earthiness, a characteristic that the winery attributes to the low altitude of this vineyard and its black, volcanic soil. Even while the wine's sweetness makes the gums ache, its flavors veer toward the savory-more papaya than pineapple, salted caramel over brown sugar. It's funky and fascinating, though not for everybody.