Performing as I expected, but still several years away from full maturity, this extraordinarily flamboyant, full-bodied, opulent, sexy St. Emilion stood out for its backward structure and youthful personality. A dark plum/garnet hue is followed by a superb bouquet of roasted coffee, kirsch, blackberries, licorice, herbs, and forest floor. Full-bodied, dense, rich, and pure, it is a total hedonistic as well as intellectual turn-on. Enjoy it over the next decade. - Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This is deeper in colour than Belair 2000, broader and fleshier on the nose with blackberry, black plum and a touch of graphite. It displays very fine definition and clarity, signalling intense fruit to come on the palate. The palate is medium-bodied, wonderful balance and poise, the glass left for five minutes (whilst chatting!) and mellowing/coalescing. The slight hardness mellows nicely, well-integrated oak and very focused towards the finish with great persistency. Excellent. Drink 2012-2030.

This is the flagship wine from the mini-empire (now comprising five properties) that is controlled by Comte Stephan von Niepperg. He has made a modern wood dominated wine with rich concentrated black fruits. It is powerful perhaps too powerful lacking a sense of the usual grace of this estate although the ripeness of the wine does compensate.

The 2000 Canon-la-Gaffelière, aged in 90% new oak for 18 months without fining, is a vintage that I have had several times since tasting it from barrel. The nose has mellowed and softened in recent years, now offering mulberry, singed leather, tea leaf and just a hint of wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and plenty of red fruit, here laced with white pepper, tobacco and a touch of muskiness toward the finish. This was always impressive in its flush of youth and remains so in full maturity. I would drink bottles over the next 10 years. -- Neal Martin

This has nice vibrancy still, with redder notes of raspberry, cherry and red currant stretching out over cocoa-dusted structure, while warm fruitcake and licorice flavors underline the finish. Not quite as dense as the top examples, but pretty tasty.--Blind 2000 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2015). Drink now through 2020. 5,417 cases made. — JM