When tasting out of barrel back in the winter of 2003, I had the sense that the 2002 vintage was a bit more extracted at Domaine Dujac than had been or is currently customary at this great estate. When I crossed paths...
When tasting out of barrel back in the winter of 2003, I had the sense that the 2002 vintage was a bit more extracted at Domaine Dujac than had been or is currently customary at this great estate. When I crossed paths with this wine at a dinner in Germany in the spring of 2013, this perception had subsided quite a bit and I did not find the wine any more muscular in profile than I would expect for a more than ten year-old Clos St. Denis, but the wine was still pretty mild in its signature of soil than most top vintages of this great bottling. The bouquet offers up beautiful fruit tones of roasted plums and black cherries, venison, herb tones, coffee, a touch of iron from the soil and cedary wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and is beginning to develop very good complexity, with a plump core, melting tannins, tangy acids and fine length and grip on the complex, but ultimately, fruit-defined finish. It is not that there are not some solid soil tones here, but in the context of the great complex base of minerality that the Dujac Clos St. Denis usually will be awash in at age eleven, this is still quite fruit-driven. However, one could not really ask for a more beautiful expression of pinot noir fruit.