Dark and smoky nose with a touch of balsamic character. The black hole of the Clare Valley on the expansive and fleshy palate. So much black-fruit aroma that it’s hard to believe it’s a decade old, let alone two. The super-fine tannins give it wonderful silkiness at the very long finish. The same wine under cork closure is more supple, with a touch of caramel, rating two points lower. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

This bottle is the 2002 Shiraz The Armagh sealed under cork. Quite distinct from the Stelvin-sealed bottle tasted beside it. This is gorgeous, fresh, and pleasurable. The Stelvin bottle is more detailed, more precise and more focused—this is like drinking the same wine that has been decanted. It’s open without being loose, and it's more approachable than the Stelvin rendition. Exciting. I’d prefer to have the Stelvin in my cellar, but I’d prefer to have someone open the cork bottle for me. It is structurally very attractive. It has 15.8% alcohol and matured for 18 months in 50% French and 50% American oak barriques (225 liters). - Erin Larkin

Abyss-black and adheres to the unwritten but well understood rule that Armagh must be big and bold, more appropriate for a passionate rendezvous than the dinner table. This vintage offers penetrating eucalyptus, white pepper, even meaty aromas. The palate is full and rich, dealing mixed berries, plum, eucalyptus and a hint of caramel. There are lasting, grippy tannins on the back palate, with notes of wheat bread and licorice on the finish. Drink through 2014.

A late-ripening vintage with plenty of concentration, deep ruby in colour. Muscular, with a sweetness to the berry fruits, grilled vanilla bean, cocoa, salted caramel and black chocolate. This has big shoulders, reflective of how Australia was making wines at the time, and it continues to deliver charm and swagger. 100% new oak, split evenly between French and American barrels. Tasted under screwcap and cork, which made for an interesting comparison - the brighter fruit character belonged to the screwcap. Mark Barry winemaker, bottled unfiltered and unfined.