The definition of finesse with a succulent complex mouthful of lemon peel oatmeal and subtle pear and apple flavors that soar through the elegant finish. The fine bead creates an almost creamy feel. Offers freshness and a sense of majesty. Drink now. -H.S.

Like previous and future instances of this genre at this address Argyle's 2002 Brut Extended Tirage represents the exact same cuvee as their 2002 Brut except re-released after enjoying seven additional years sur latte. The effect is of enhanced complexity and sensuality I suspect most tasters will like me deem it worth paying slightly more than twice the price of the current vintage brut release. "I got really pissed off at some point" says Soles about the origins of this cuvee "and the point was to show the world that - you know what? - we can age sparkling wine in the Willamette Valley." A smoky hint of lees autolysis along with hazelnut and walnut oil piquantly add to the apple pear quince and liquid honeysuckle perfume familiar from younger disgorgements of Argyle Brut with yeast vanilla frangipane and hints of caramel adding a delightful finishing nod in the direction of patisserie. Subtly creamy and infused with an at once caressingly and stimulatingly fine mousse this retains more than enough primary juiciness to remain (profoundly) refreshing. The adeptly-judged dosage here is ten grams of residual sugar unsurprisingly a bit less than that with which "the same" wine was outfitted for its maiden voyage. No doubt this can be followed with pleasure for several post-disgorgement years. Had somebody suggested to me incidentally that this was a hitherto unknown late-disgorged sparkling Vouvray I'm not sure I would have doubted them. -David Schildknecht