The 2002 Run Rig (97% Shiraz and 3% Viognier aged in 100% new French oak) represents the essence of old vine Barossa fruit. Extraordinarily opulent and rich but playing it closer to the vest than the 2001 it gets my nod as one of the most remarkable wines made in either the Southern or Northern Hemisphere. An inky/purple color is accompanied by a sumptuous bouquet of apricots honeysuckle black raspberries blackberries licorice and a hint of roasted meats. The wood has been soaked up by the wine’s extraordinary concentration. Fashioned from four sectors of Barossa (Maranaga Koonunga Hill Moppa and Greenock) it spent 30 months in primarily new oak and was bottled without fining or filtration. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020+.

(18/20) You can certainly smell the Viognier on the nose. The wine is incredibly full, rich and sweet with a sensation of wild purple fruit flavours and more than a hint of elderberries. Subtle it ain't, and it's still disjointed on the palate but it's amazingly persistent and vibrant. I can quite see why it has such a devoted following – and an incredibly wide distribution at around $200 a bottle.