Shows beautiful, lacy texture, weaving persistent and mouthwatering acidity with flavors of patisserie pear, dried apricot, almond paste, pickled ginger, acacia blossom and clover honey. This is underscored by a rich note of smoky minerality that rings out on the finish. Drink now through 2030. – AN

Taking the masculine power of the 2002 vintage and running with it, this comes across as massive and powerful, all of its swagger suspended by a team of needling bubbles. Oak furthers the structural intensity, as does an almost tannic leesiness, wrapped in flavors that range from vanilla custard to fresh macadamia nut. The final impression is sumptuous, tasting enough like wild mushrooms and lobster to match a dish combining the two. For now, it’s best left to rest in the cellar.

A superb, mature wine that is ripe, toasty and full of yellow- and white-fruit flavors. A fine balance brings up spice, an opulent texture, a taut edge of steel and a feeling that this fine wine is ready to drink. It can age, and it will be better over the next few years as its secondary aromas stay in balance with the fruitiness.

100% Chardonnay. Notably toasty nose with quite a bit of autolysis. Fine bead. Appetising dry finish, almost as though there’s some oak, after a delicate, mineral mid palate. Lots of acidity and very attractively refreshing. Very satisfying already. 18/20