Disgorged in June 2014 with 5.5 grams per liter dosage, the 2002 Dom Ruinart Rosé includes 20% red Pinot Noir from Sillery and Verzenay. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of brioche, mirabelle plum, dried orange rind and fresh pastry, it's full-bodied, broad and gourmand, with a creamy mousse, delicate phenolic grip and excellent balance. This is one of the finest renditions of this cuvée that I've tasted. - William Kelley

This decadently rich Champagne is beginning to open gracefully. For many years it seemed closed and tight, but today, it is beginning to soften and reveal its secrets. The aromas start with a base of ripe apple accented with a splash of red fruit notes and range to liuqorice, smoke and toasted brioche. The mousse is still very lively, and the texture is creamy and supple, with enough substance to linger impressively on the palate while retaining all its finesse. Produced from 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, all from grand cru villages.

Big on the autolysis wow factor, this chardonnay-driven rosé is a very impressive Champagne from the outset with a wealth of toasty autolysis, sweet spices and flinty lemon with some pink grapefruit too. The intensity is impressive, as is the complexity and freshness. The palate has smooth-honed shape and fine acidity with some assertive ripe phenolics making for superior structure and depth. Flavors of blood orange, peach and lemon drive deep and the finish is superb. Drink now or for up to five years.

It’s rare to find a 2002 as compellingly drinkable as this rosé. It’s floral and intensely fruity, the flavor lasting for minutes, supported by limestone acidity as if by the arches of the chalk caves in which this rested for the past dozen years. The dosage is generous, which may be one reason this feels ready to drink, its gripping richness and refinement making it a match for roast squab or other game birds.

This is subtle up front, with delicate aromas and flavors of pink grapefruit granita, pickled ginger, spun honey and biscuit. The smoky underpinning of minerality gains momentum, riding the lacy mousse to a fresh and persistent finish. Drink now through 2027. From France. — A.N.

From a great Champagne vintage, this rich, full-bodied wine is just beginning to develop secondary flavors, toast and walnuts. The red fruits are fading into the background, while keeping the acidity in place. It is ripe, well balanced and has a delicious, long aftertaste. It is ready to drink.