Like the Madrona Ranch, the 2003 Thorevilos comes from the St. Helena AVA. Co-owned with Ric Forman, this is one of the true first-growth sites in all of California. The dense plum/ruby/purple color is followed by aromas of white acacia flowers, blueberry liqueur, creme de cassis and incense. The wine cuts a slightly deeper, richer, fuller-bodied mouthfeel than even the Madrona, but displays no harshness. Just entering its plateau of full maturity, the wine offers beautiful purity, symmetry and density as well as a subtle hint of new oak. A certain youthfulness suggests it might outlive its sibling, but it is still too early to know. This wine can be drunk now or cellared for another 10-15 years. - Robert Parker