Tasted alongside the Melbury St. Eden is richer more layered and complex. The jammy cherry and chocolate flavors here possess deeper notes of blue and purple fruits with a brooding mulchy depth that grounds the wine. The texture is gorgeous with perfectly ripe sweet tannins. Despite the wine's power it has an airy cloud-like quality surely the mark of a great wine. - S.H.

The 2003 St. Eden offers full-bodied sweet cigar tobacco spice licorice and meaty characteristics good richness and fatness and huge concentration and intensity. Performing even better from bottle than it did from barrel it is a strong candidate for the top wine of the vintage. Already accessible this beauty should age effortlessly for 15-20 years. Previously recommended: 2002 Matriarch (90) 2002 Melbury (96) 2002 St. Eden (95) 2002 Vecina (95+).Tel. (707) 944-1441; Fax (707) 944-1444

Superrich and concentrated with tiers of currant blackberry and wild berry fruit that's plush pushing ripeness to the edge. Yet maintains its balance and for those who enjoy a rich high-extract style this works. Drink now through 2011. 725 cases made. –JL