Brane-Cantenac's natural elegance at the heart of Margaux doesn't seem to have survived 2003 as well as some other properties despite the initial favorable impression at barrel tasting time. That is to say that the fruit is very generous juicy almost but its ripeness seems out of proportion to the soft tannins and sweet aftertaste...

Fully mature and beginning to tire ever so slightly, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc represents only 41% of the production because of tiny yields of 31.3 hectoliters per hectare as well as the selection process of Henri Lurton. Aromas of burning embers, scorched earth and sweet blackberry and black currant fruit emerge from this cuvee. It is an easygoing, fully mature 2003 that has come of age much quicker than I expected. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. - Robert M. Parker, Jr.