The first vintage completely under the Chapoutier umbrella, the 2003 Hermitage le Meal Estate is a beauty that had me looking for another glass. Loaded with notions of cassis, iodine, pen ink, licorice and violets, it's full-bodied and concentrated, with a decadent, heady, blockbuster styled finish. There's nothing overripe, overdone or out of place and it's still youthful and lively. Drink it anytime over the coming 15+ years. - Jeb Dunnuck

Shows the exotic ripeness of the vintage, with a blast of blackberry and boysenberry confiture aromas and flavors, quickly followed by mocha, vanilla bean and dark coffee notes. Dark finish has tons of grip and smoky toast, leaving a broad, rather than precise impression. Best from 2008 through 2025. – JM