The aromatics on display here stand out from the others in the lineup, reflecting the warmth of the vintage. Majoring on damson plum, touches of sour cherry, oyster shell and ripe fig fruits. The tannins give a slightly dry finish, but well balanced by sandalwood, clove, truffle and black pepper spice. There is still freshness here, underlining something I am finding in a number of 2003s right now from this corner of the Médoc. 50% new oak, Michel Raoul technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant.

A classic St.-Julien, the 2003 Langoa Barton offers notes of cedarwood, fruitcake, spice box and black currants as well as some light tannins still in evidence. This dark plum/ruby/garnet-colored, medium to full-bodied wine possesses sweet fruit, but no over-ripeness or roasted characteristics. Coming into full maturity, it should continue to drink well for another decade. - Robert M. Parker, Jr.