The 2003 Spatburgunder trocken Cuvee Max exhibits high-toned red fruits and smoky leathery meatiness in the nose. Fresh red berries characterize the palate and there is clearly more density and structure as well as an element of wood than in the "regular" bottlings. That said this exhibits less charm creaminess and fluidity. It no more betrays its 14% (natural) alcohol than the estate's basic Spatburgunder did its 13.5%. This has room to grow if cellared. 89+ -David Schildknecht