The Quinta do Noval Nacional 2003 is more backward on the nose than the Vintage Noval ‘03, with perfumed black plum, incense, lavender and spice. The aromatics here are pure and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins matched by a killer line of acidity that comes wholly unexpected given the growing season. Thus, it is extremely focused and vigorous, with superb precision and tension. This is a modern-day legend in the making, superior to the 2000 and 1997. Drink 2018-2045. Tasted January 2014. - NEAL MARTIN

Exotic, with a flash of mint giving way quickly to vivid blueberry paste, açaí berry reduction and blackberry pâte de fruit notes that are still quite youthful in profile. Shows both silky and brambly elements, as well as muscle and finesse as this extends with salted licorice, dark chocolate, cinnamon and alder accents through the mineral-tinged finish, where the minty note returns as a seductive echo. Unique and gorgeous. Best from 2025 through 2050. - JM