My favorite of this trio is the 2003 Le Desir, a Sonoma County St.-Emilion look-alike made from 41% Cabernet Franc, 44% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Malbec (14.3% alcohol). Hints of graphite, mulberries, black cherries, black currants, licorice, dusty loamy soil, truffles and spice emerge from this strikingly fragrant, complex 2003. Full-bodied with formidable intensity, sweet tannin and a long, layered finish that lasts for nearly 50 seconds, this is a tour de force and a compelling 2003. Accessible now, it should continue to drink well for two decades. Bravo! - Robert Parker