From the Plateau de la Crau in the southeast portion of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Bruniers produce this wine from vines averaging 50 years of age. The brooding, densely ripe 2003 feels richer and bigger than the 2001 or 1998, yet the weight is perfectly supported by its tannic structure. Velvety flavors of blackberry, black cherry, chocolate and clove are gripping and focused. As lovely as this is now, it will be even more expressive with another five years in the cellar.

Tight at first but quickly picks up steam in the glass with dark cherry plum tobacco pepper mineral and hot stone notes pumping through the long fruit- and i terroir n -filled finish. Really fleshes out nicely with velvety tannins that are atypical in '03. Drink now through 2020. 17000 cases made.

This classic wine from the Brunier family is certainly one of the best known names in Château-neuf-du-Pape. It is also a very fine wine, full of perfumed fruit, dark, dry but rich tannins, flavors of oak, pepper and herbs, made in quite a traditional style. The name “La Crau” refers to the plateau on which the vines are planted.