An enticing aroma of grapefruit leads to flavors of candied citrus and apricot followed by lush, rich notes of butterscotch, honey, white chocolate and cream. Unctuous and complex, with a long, long finish. Drink now through 2040. — KM

For a grape that is naturally honeyed and sweet, Kracher has come up with a surprise. This is more about freshness and delicious acidity than about sweetness, which is almost a background to this smooth, intense, delicious wine.

Glazed apricot and candied orange rind are the dominant themes of Kracher’s 2004 #5 Muskat Ottonel Trockenbeerenauslese Zwischen den Seen. I love the combination of nectarous refreshment with subtly waxy, buttery texture that this delivers on the palate, and the slightly peppery, faintly bitter notes that help make the lusciously citric finish so invigorating. This is not the most complex of Kracher TBAs, but I guarantee it is going to prove one of the most versatile if you actually take it out to dinner on a few occasions. (And remember, 80 or 90 dollars spent on one of these half bottles goes a pretty long way, sitting for months in your refrigerator without danger of decay, and set to be sipped at will.) -DS