“2004 is the first normal vintage I can remember in a while,” says Maria Theresa Mascarello. “We were finished with our Nebbiolo harvest on the 12th of October.” Her pure, finessed 2004 Barolo offers a compelling array of perfumed violets, dark cherries and baking spices with superb clarity and delineation. A weightless, ethereal Barolo, it reveals notable freshness and supple tannins on the long, finessed finish. Although I have tasted this wine many times from cask, I first encountered it from bottle at a blind tasting where it was immediately recognizable for its style, purity and class. This is the best young Barolo I have tasted here in many a year. Fans of traditional Barolo won’t want to miss this superb effort. The 2004 Barolo was fermented for 20-30 days in cement. The malos progressed at an unusually slow pace and weren’t finished until the following summer. The wine was aged in medium-sized casks. Readers can also look forward to promising wines in 2005, 2006 and 2007. I also had a chance to re-taste the 2003, which is a lovely Barolo for nearer-term consumption. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.- AG

Shows aromas of dried flowers, mushroom and plum, verging on prune. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and beautiful fruit. This is generous but subtle, with chewy tannins and loads of character. The real deal. Best after 2011. — JS