A thoroughly underrated vintage, the 2004 exudes violet freshness and wonderful cool blue fruit purity. The nuanced palate is on a slower evolutionary track than the similar 2001 vintage, displaying lovely tannic backbone, ripe fruit and impressive length. While it lacks the 'warmer charms' of 2003, 2009 or 2015, it has graceful mid palate muscle: svelte and sexy. 3.83pH.

Waves of fragrant violet and peony flowers on the nose, along with tobacco leaf, roses and ecualyptus. This is a classic vintage but don't underestimate just how delicious it is, with the fruit is still pretty dark and intense, cassis and crushed raspberry, with edges of bitter cocoa bean, soy, turmeric and black pepper spice. The tannins at this point are fully integrated, flirting with opening up and allowing the fruit to flood the palate. 100% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.