Inky rich damson with edges of russet and a curl of campfire smoke. This is elegant and balanced, juicy cassis, damson puree and bilberry fruits. There is a generosity to the structure, with concentration through the palate, with plenty of firm Pauillac tannins and finesse. An excellent 2004 that also delivered high yields of around 57hl/h (the full AOC allowance), and yet is still going strong, proof of how much natural intensity there is on these soils. 60% new oak.

As always, Lynch-Bages comes in with an impressive performance. It is rich, dense and ripe with black fruit flavors. The texture is solid, the intense fruits complemented by ripe tannins. And, to finish, there is the freshness of currant fruit acidity. A really fine wine. ROGER VOSS

Lynch-Bages provides the beauty and grandeur of Pauillac on a smaller scale than the firsts. It's as polished as any of the great wines of the region, with lovely cassis flavors on a silken frame. Complex and savory, the purity of the fruit makes this wine mouthwatering even at this early stage in its evolution. Put a case away; this is structured to age for 20 years and beyond.

The 2004 Lynch-Bages is clean and well-defined on the nose with focused black fruit, cedar, mint and light star anis aromas, gaining intensity constantly in the glass. Not as conservative as other Left Banks in this vintage. The palate is ripe and opulent with licorice-infused black fruit, candied orange peel, brown spices and sage. There's fine grip with a slightly "blocky" finish that needs to show a tad more elegance. Tasted at the Lynch-Bages vertical at the château. -- Neal Martin