Scents of ginger and ginseng introduce the earthy, rooty side of this rich chardonnay Champagne. That dark, baritone resonance carries through the wine, contrasted in the finish by an almost searing acidity that cuts through the richness and leaves a naked, harmonious impression of pure limestone.

The Pascal Doquet 2004 Brut Le Mesnil is at once more rarified and slightly less generous than its non-vintage counterpart tasted alongside. But then, this vintage bottling was only disgorged in February of the present year. And even so, what a show it presents! Bittersweet perfume of gentian, freesia and iris; maritime alkaline notes; and hints of wheat germ greet the nose; then inflect a firm palate juicy with fresh apple and lemon. Kelp, oyster liquor, crayfish reduction and chalk combine for a mouthwatering, grippingly persistent and vibrant finish. Sure, it's impossible to sneak a sip (or several); but plan to give this a couple of years in bottle and expect several more of fascination thereafter. - David Schildknecht