A rich toasty blanc de blancs with layers of biscuit quince and candied orange peel accented by smoke and honey notes. Broad-shouldered with firm acidity yet retains a sleek vibrancy. Very well put together with a long juicy spice-tinged finish. Drink now through 2017.-A.N.

Warm smoky notes intermingled with mineral emerge as the 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay Premier Cru Fleuron opens up in the glass. Despite its youth this shows wonderful aromatic expressiveness and fabulous overall balance. Flowers mint and citrus add layers of complexity on the finish. The Fleuron is a blend of fruit from Chouilly Cramant and Cuis. This is L1410051193 disgorged: May 11 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.-Antonio Galloni